glass mosaic tile art studio of william j enslen jr
| Chapter 7 Backgrounds and Borders Page 3 |
Please note: Text and figures from the ebook
have been reformatted to fit this webpage.
have been reformatted to fit this webpage.
Borders
Borders aren't as important to me as backgrounds, but that doesn't mean I take them lightly. Keep in mind that my brain requires order, which is a major reason why I use
borders. They bring an added sense of structure to my mosaics. Your brain may function differently and you may think borders look silly or detract from the mosaic's main
features. Borders aren't required the way backgrounds are. If you don't like borders or if they don't contribute to the overall desired look, then don't use them.
After experimenting with many different types of borders, I found that the simplest usually work best. My favorite style comprises two rows of vitreous tiles. The perimeter row
comprises full 3/4-inch vitreous tiles while the inner row comprises vitreous tiles cut into halves. The two rows are usually different colors. For example, the mosaic in Figure 7-7 has
a plain, white picture frame (to match the trim in our kitchen) with a border that serves as a secondary frame. The dark-brown row looks almost the same width as the inner
light-brown row, but it does, indeed, comprise full 3/4-inch tiles. The white frame covers about 1/8-inch of the mosaic's face on all sides. The frame, the border, and the rest of the
mosaic all come together into a tidy package that pleases the eye.
Borders aren't as important to me as backgrounds, but that doesn't mean I take them lightly. Keep in mind that my brain requires order, which is a major reason why I use
borders. They bring an added sense of structure to my mosaics. Your brain may function differently and you may think borders look silly or detract from the mosaic's main
features. Borders aren't required the way backgrounds are. If you don't like borders or if they don't contribute to the overall desired look, then don't use them.
After experimenting with many different types of borders, I found that the simplest usually work best. My favorite style comprises two rows of vitreous tiles. The perimeter row
comprises full 3/4-inch vitreous tiles while the inner row comprises vitreous tiles cut into halves. The two rows are usually different colors. For example, the mosaic in Figure 7-7 has
a plain, white picture frame (to match the trim in our kitchen) with a border that serves as a secondary frame. The dark-brown row looks almost the same width as the inner
light-brown row, but it does, indeed, comprise full 3/4-inch tiles. The white frame covers about 1/8-inch of the mosaic's face on all sides. The frame, the border, and the rest of the
mosaic all come together into a tidy package that pleases the eye.
Figure 7-7. Borders Add Structure to Your Mosaic
The border in Figure 7-5 (on page 2) is a similar style with a much different look. The outer row comprises full 3/4-inch gray vitreous tiles. The inner row comprises half-cut bone-
colored vitreous tiles with small blue squares set after every two bone pieces. I cut blue vitreous tiles into quarters to make the small squares. I felt like spicing things up a bit so I
contrasted the gray and bone tesserae with blue, but made it blend with the blue sky. Just adding those few little blue squares produced a wonderful look.
Try varying this simple style to find the border that best fits your mosaic. For example, try using:
Once you decide on a pattern, don't forget the color. Should the border contrast with the rest of the mosaic and stand out, or should it blend and hide? Don't constrain your
imagination, but keep in mind that the simplest design usually works best.
Borders can be functional at the same time they enhance your mosaic's look. For example, let's talk more about the end table in Figure 7-5 (on page 2). Long ago, the wife and I
bought two junky end tables shortly after getting married. At the time, she was into light oak. Over the years, we accumulated all sorts of mismatched furniture and our tastes
gradually shifted from light to dark. One day, we found ourselves with two light-colored oak end tables surrounded by everything else in dark. Sure enough, one day she hinted
that we needed to go furniture shopping. I asked permission to try something with the end tables before spending $1,000 on two new ones.
I had never refinished furniture before, but I wasn't going to let that stop me, especially when the wife had plans to spend $1,000 on new stuff. I spent all morning sanding the
finish off both tables. Perfection. Smooth, clean, and ready for staining. I opened the can of dark-walnut and slopped it on. A few strokes later, I noticed it wasn't looking how I
expected. I thought, "Man, this is ugly, I hope it looks better after wiping it with a rag." Wishful thinking. The stain highlighted every nick, scratch, blemish, and every other kind of
imperfection in the wood. It looked horrible. I failed miserably and quickly accepted the fact that staining wood isn't my forte. But I still wasn't giving up.
I painted both tables with quick-drying white primer, and then bought a quart of flat dark-brown paint similar to the dark-walnut stain. Two hours later, both tables were dark-
brown. That didn't look quite right, so I dug out a five-year-old rusty can of glossy clear acrylic polyurethane and brushed on a coat. It looked surprisingly good. By the time I
finished the second table, the polycrylic on the first table was dry so I added a second coat. I thought, "You know, this looks pretty doggone good." When dry, I brought them
inside and put them in their places. The wife came home later and immediately commented on how good they looked. Success! I saved $1,000.
While watching TV that night, I fidgeted in my chair unable to get comfortable. I kept looking at the end tables thinking, "They're not quite right." Then, it hit me. I decided to
mosaic the tops. As usual, I asked for permission to tinker and she said yes, probably hoping I'd mess them up so we'd have to buy new ones.
The next day, I sanded off the polycrylic and paint from the tops of each table. The tops were flat without an inlay so the only way to make this harebrained mosaic idea work was
to figure a way to make an edge that wouldn't cut anyone. The simple solution was to use vitreous glass tiles as a border.
Unlike stained glass pieces, which when cut have sharp 90-degree-angled edges, vitreous tiles have slightly rounded edges angling inward that can catch grout allowing you to
make a finished edge. For these tabletops, I used vitreous glass tiles for the border and stained glass for everything else. The results were much more impressive than I had
expected (refer to the Gallery chapter to see how they turned out).
The blunt border made it all possible. See Figure 7-8 for a closeup of how I finished the border edges.
colored vitreous tiles with small blue squares set after every two bone pieces. I cut blue vitreous tiles into quarters to make the small squares. I felt like spicing things up a bit so I
contrasted the gray and bone tesserae with blue, but made it blend with the blue sky. Just adding those few little blue squares produced a wonderful look.
Try varying this simple style to find the border that best fits your mosaic. For example, try using:
- 3/4-inch vitreous squares for both rows.
- Two rows of 3/4-inch squares and one row of 5/8-inch iridescent squares.
- Three or four rows of 3/4-inch vitreous tiles hand-cut into quarters placed in a checkerboard pattern.
- A single row of 3/4-inch vitreous tiles hand-cut into halves.
- Stained glass hand-cut into rectangles of equal width but varying lengths.
Once you decide on a pattern, don't forget the color. Should the border contrast with the rest of the mosaic and stand out, or should it blend and hide? Don't constrain your
imagination, but keep in mind that the simplest design usually works best.
Borders can be functional at the same time they enhance your mosaic's look. For example, let's talk more about the end table in Figure 7-5 (on page 2). Long ago, the wife and I
bought two junky end tables shortly after getting married. At the time, she was into light oak. Over the years, we accumulated all sorts of mismatched furniture and our tastes
gradually shifted from light to dark. One day, we found ourselves with two light-colored oak end tables surrounded by everything else in dark. Sure enough, one day she hinted
that we needed to go furniture shopping. I asked permission to try something with the end tables before spending $1,000 on two new ones.
I had never refinished furniture before, but I wasn't going to let that stop me, especially when the wife had plans to spend $1,000 on new stuff. I spent all morning sanding the
finish off both tables. Perfection. Smooth, clean, and ready for staining. I opened the can of dark-walnut and slopped it on. A few strokes later, I noticed it wasn't looking how I
expected. I thought, "Man, this is ugly, I hope it looks better after wiping it with a rag." Wishful thinking. The stain highlighted every nick, scratch, blemish, and every other kind of
imperfection in the wood. It looked horrible. I failed miserably and quickly accepted the fact that staining wood isn't my forte. But I still wasn't giving up.
I painted both tables with quick-drying white primer, and then bought a quart of flat dark-brown paint similar to the dark-walnut stain. Two hours later, both tables were dark-
brown. That didn't look quite right, so I dug out a five-year-old rusty can of glossy clear acrylic polyurethane and brushed on a coat. It looked surprisingly good. By the time I
finished the second table, the polycrylic on the first table was dry so I added a second coat. I thought, "You know, this looks pretty doggone good." When dry, I brought them
inside and put them in their places. The wife came home later and immediately commented on how good they looked. Success! I saved $1,000.
While watching TV that night, I fidgeted in my chair unable to get comfortable. I kept looking at the end tables thinking, "They're not quite right." Then, it hit me. I decided to
mosaic the tops. As usual, I asked for permission to tinker and she said yes, probably hoping I'd mess them up so we'd have to buy new ones.
The next day, I sanded off the polycrylic and paint from the tops of each table. The tops were flat without an inlay so the only way to make this harebrained mosaic idea work was
to figure a way to make an edge that wouldn't cut anyone. The simple solution was to use vitreous glass tiles as a border.
Unlike stained glass pieces, which when cut have sharp 90-degree-angled edges, vitreous tiles have slightly rounded edges angling inward that can catch grout allowing you to
make a finished edge. For these tabletops, I used vitreous glass tiles for the border and stained glass for everything else. The results were much more impressive than I had
expected (refer to the Gallery chapter to see how they turned out).
The blunt border made it all possible. See Figure 7-8 for a closeup of how I finished the border edges.
Figure 7-8. The Blunt Border is Safe to the Touch
The vitreous tile’s deep-set edge allowed me to squeeze in grout for a finished look. To prevent the exposed grout from cracking and crumbling over time, I carefully brushed on
three coats of polycrylic along the entire grouted edge. The polycrylic soaked into the grout, sealing it and making it hard as a rock. No matter how often the dogs scratch it or
how hard I bang my leg against it, the grout stays good as new. (How do you like my dark-brown paint job?)
The point of the story is that borders can do more than enhance the look of your mosaic. Use your imagination to dream up ways borders can improve your projects, both in
terms of looks and functionality.
three coats of polycrylic along the entire grouted edge. The polycrylic soaked into the grout, sealing it and making it hard as a rock. No matter how often the dogs scratch it or
how hard I bang my leg against it, the grout stays good as new. (How do you like my dark-brown paint job?)
The point of the story is that borders can do more than enhance the look of your mosaic. Use your imagination to dream up ways borders can improve your projects, both in
terms of looks and functionality.
End
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Home | Gallery | Contact | eBook Table of Contents | Sample Chapter 6 | Sample Chapter 7 | Mosaic Tables | Mosaic Floor | Buy Mosaic Supplies | Buy the ebook Now
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