glass mosaic tile art studio of william j enslen jr
| Chapter 7 Backgrounds and Borders Page 3 |
Please note: Text and figures
from the eBook have been
reformatted to fit this webpage.
from the eBook have been
reformatted to fit this webpage.
Borders
Borders aren't as important to me as backgrounds, but that doesn't mean I take them lightly. Keep in mind that my brain requires order,
which is a major reason why I use borders. They bring an added sense of structure to my mosaics. Your brain may function differently
and you may think borders look silly or detract from the mosaic's main features. Borders aren't required the way backgrounds are. If you
don't like borders or if they don't contribute to the overall desired look, then don't use them.
After experimenting with many different types of borders, I found that the simplest usually work best. My favorite style comprises two
rows of vitreous tiles. The perimeter row comprises full 3/4-inch vitreous tiles while the inner row comprises vitreous tiles cut into halves.
The two rows are usually different colors. For example, the mosaic in Figure 7-7 has a plain, white picture frame (to match the trim in our
kitchen) with a border that serves as a secondary frame. The dark-brown row looks almost the same width as the inner light-brown row,
but it does, indeed, comprise full 3/4-inch tiles. The white frame covers about 1/8-inch of the mosaic's face on all sides. The frame, the
border, and the rest of the mosaic all come together into a tidy package that pleases the eye.
Borders aren't as important to me as backgrounds, but that doesn't mean I take them lightly. Keep in mind that my brain requires order,
which is a major reason why I use borders. They bring an added sense of structure to my mosaics. Your brain may function differently
and you may think borders look silly or detract from the mosaic's main features. Borders aren't required the way backgrounds are. If you
don't like borders or if they don't contribute to the overall desired look, then don't use them.
After experimenting with many different types of borders, I found that the simplest usually work best. My favorite style comprises two
rows of vitreous tiles. The perimeter row comprises full 3/4-inch vitreous tiles while the inner row comprises vitreous tiles cut into halves.
The two rows are usually different colors. For example, the mosaic in Figure 7-7 has a plain, white picture frame (to match the trim in our
kitchen) with a border that serves as a secondary frame. The dark-brown row looks almost the same width as the inner light-brown row,
but it does, indeed, comprise full 3/4-inch tiles. The white frame covers about 1/8-inch of the mosaic's face on all sides. The frame, the
border, and the rest of the mosaic all come together into a tidy package that pleases the eye.
Figure 7-7. Borders Add Structure to Your Mosaic
The border in Figure 7-5 (on page 2) is a similar style with a much different look. The outer row comprises full 3/4-inch gray vitreous
tiles. The inner row comprises half-cut bone-colored vitreous tiles with small blue squares set after every two bone pieces. I cut blue
vitreous tiles into quarters to make the small squares. I felt like spicing things up a bit so I contrasted the gray and bone tesserae with blue,
but made it blend with the blue sky. Just adding those few little blue squares produced a wonderful look.
Try varying this simple style to find the border that best fits your mosaic. For example, try using:
Once you decide on a pattern, don't forget the color. Should the border contrast with the rest of the mosaic and stand out, or should it
blend and hide? Don't constrain your imagination, but keep in mind that the simplest design usually works best.
Borders can be functional at the same time they enhance your mosaic's look. For example, let's talk more about the end table in Figure 7-5
(on page 2). Long ago, the wife and I bought two junky end tables shortly after getting married. At the time, she was into light oak. Over
the years, we accumulated all sorts of mismatched furniture and our tastes gradually shifted from light to dark. One day, we found
ourselves with two light-colored oak end tables surrounded by everything else in dark. Sure enough, one day she hinted that we needed to
go furniture shopping. I asked permission to try something with the end tables before spending $1,000 on two new ones.
I had never refinished furniture before, but I wasn't going to let that stop me, especially when the wife had plans to spend $1,000 on new
stuff. I spent all morning sanding the finish off both tables. Perfection. Smooth, clean, and ready for staining. I opened the can of dark-
walnut and slopped it on. A few strokes later, I noticed it wasn't looking how I expected. I thought, "Man, this is ugly, I hope it looks
better after wiping it with a rag." Wishful thinking. The stain highlighted every nick, scratch, blemish, and every other kind of imperfection
in the wood. It looked horrible. I failed miserably and quickly accepted the fact that staining wood isn't my forte. But I still wasn't giving
up.
I painted both tables with quick-drying white primer, and then bought a quart of flat dark-brown paint similar to the dark-walnut stain. Two
hours later, both tables were dark-brown. That didn't look quite right, so I dug out a five-year-old rusty can of glossy clear acrylic
polyurethane and brushed on a coat. It looked surprisingly good. By the time I finished the second table, the polycrylic on the first table
was dry so I added a second coat. I thought, "You know, this looks pretty doggone good." When dry, I brought them inside and put them
in their places. The wife came home later and immediately commented on how good they looked. Success! I saved $1,000.
While watching TV that night, I fidgeted in my chair unable to get comfortable. I kept looking at the end tables thinking, "They're not quite
right." Then, it hit me. I decided to mosaic the tops. As usual, I asked for permission to tinker and she said yes, probably hoping I'd mess
them up so we'd have to buy new ones.
The next day, I sanded off the polycrylic and paint from the tops of each table. The tops were flat without an inlay so the only way to
make this harebrained mosaic idea work was to figure a way to make an edge that wouldn't cut anyone. The simple solution was to use
vitreous glass tiles as a border.
Unlike stained glass pieces, which when cut have sharp 90-degree-angled edges, vitreous tiles have slightly rounded edges angling inward
that can catch grout allowing you to make a finished edge. For these tabletops, I used vitreous glass tiles for the border and stained glass
for everything else. The results were much more impressive than I had expected (refer to the Gallery chapter to see how they turned out).
The blunt border made it all possible. See Figure 7-8 for a closeup of how I finished the border edges.
tiles. The inner row comprises half-cut bone-colored vitreous tiles with small blue squares set after every two bone pieces. I cut blue
vitreous tiles into quarters to make the small squares. I felt like spicing things up a bit so I contrasted the gray and bone tesserae with blue,
but made it blend with the blue sky. Just adding those few little blue squares produced a wonderful look.
Try varying this simple style to find the border that best fits your mosaic. For example, try using:
- 3/4-inch vitreous squares for both rows.
- Two rows of 3/4-inch squares and one row of 5/8-inch iridescent squares.
- Three or four rows of 3/4-inch vitreous tiles hand-cut into quarters placed in a checkerboard pattern.
- A single row of 3/4-inch vitreous tiles hand-cut into halves.
- Stained glass hand-cut into rectangles of equal width but varying lengths.
Once you decide on a pattern, don't forget the color. Should the border contrast with the rest of the mosaic and stand out, or should it
blend and hide? Don't constrain your imagination, but keep in mind that the simplest design usually works best.
Borders can be functional at the same time they enhance your mosaic's look. For example, let's talk more about the end table in Figure 7-5
(on page 2). Long ago, the wife and I bought two junky end tables shortly after getting married. At the time, she was into light oak. Over
the years, we accumulated all sorts of mismatched furniture and our tastes gradually shifted from light to dark. One day, we found
ourselves with two light-colored oak end tables surrounded by everything else in dark. Sure enough, one day she hinted that we needed to
go furniture shopping. I asked permission to try something with the end tables before spending $1,000 on two new ones.
I had never refinished furniture before, but I wasn't going to let that stop me, especially when the wife had plans to spend $1,000 on new
stuff. I spent all morning sanding the finish off both tables. Perfection. Smooth, clean, and ready for staining. I opened the can of dark-
walnut and slopped it on. A few strokes later, I noticed it wasn't looking how I expected. I thought, "Man, this is ugly, I hope it looks
better after wiping it with a rag." Wishful thinking. The stain highlighted every nick, scratch, blemish, and every other kind of imperfection
in the wood. It looked horrible. I failed miserably and quickly accepted the fact that staining wood isn't my forte. But I still wasn't giving
up.
I painted both tables with quick-drying white primer, and then bought a quart of flat dark-brown paint similar to the dark-walnut stain. Two
hours later, both tables were dark-brown. That didn't look quite right, so I dug out a five-year-old rusty can of glossy clear acrylic
polyurethane and brushed on a coat. It looked surprisingly good. By the time I finished the second table, the polycrylic on the first table
was dry so I added a second coat. I thought, "You know, this looks pretty doggone good." When dry, I brought them inside and put them
in their places. The wife came home later and immediately commented on how good they looked. Success! I saved $1,000.
While watching TV that night, I fidgeted in my chair unable to get comfortable. I kept looking at the end tables thinking, "They're not quite
right." Then, it hit me. I decided to mosaic the tops. As usual, I asked for permission to tinker and she said yes, probably hoping I'd mess
them up so we'd have to buy new ones.
The next day, I sanded off the polycrylic and paint from the tops of each table. The tops were flat without an inlay so the only way to
make this harebrained mosaic idea work was to figure a way to make an edge that wouldn't cut anyone. The simple solution was to use
vitreous glass tiles as a border.
Unlike stained glass pieces, which when cut have sharp 90-degree-angled edges, vitreous tiles have slightly rounded edges angling inward
that can catch grout allowing you to make a finished edge. For these tabletops, I used vitreous glass tiles for the border and stained glass
for everything else. The results were much more impressive than I had expected (refer to the Gallery chapter to see how they turned out).
The blunt border made it all possible. See Figure 7-8 for a closeup of how I finished the border edges.
Figure 7-8. The Blunt Border is Safe to the Touch
The vitreous tile’s deep-set edge allowed me to squeeze in grout for a finished look. To prevent the exposed grout from cracking and
crumbling over time, I carefully brushed on three coats of polycrylic along the entire grouted edge. The polycrylic soaked into the grout,
sealing it and making it hard as a rock. No matter how often the dogs scratch it or how hard I bang my leg against it, the grout stays good
as new. (How do you like my dark-brown paint job?)
The point of the story is that borders can do more than enhance the look of your mosaic. Use your imagination to dream up ways borders
can improve your projects, both in terms of looks and functionality.
crumbling over time, I carefully brushed on three coats of polycrylic along the entire grouted edge. The polycrylic soaked into the grout,
sealing it and making it hard as a rock. No matter how often the dogs scratch it or how hard I bang my leg against it, the grout stays good
as new. (How do you like my dark-brown paint job?)
The point of the story is that borders can do more than enhance the look of your mosaic. Use your imagination to dream up ways borders
can improve your projects, both in terms of looks and functionality.
End
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