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glass mosaic tile art studio of william j enslen jr
| Lesson of the Month Page 6 |
| Figure 17. Progress after about 30 Hours |
One last piece! After about two weeks, cutting and gluing are almost complete (Figure 17). Pressing that last piece into place always feels
so good.
Step 8: Remove the Pattern and Plastic Wrap
Let the glue dry at least 48 hours; however, it probably still won’t be completely dry. The plastic wrap and glass are air-proof, and as the
glue dries from the outside edges, it entombs the rest of the wet glue in the center of each piece of tessera. The result is that the glue in the
center of each tessera takes a relatively long time to dry. As you'll learn in the chapter, Adhesives, of the eBook, PVA glue dries only when
the water evaporates, so when air flow is restricted, the glue stays wet longer. However, enough glue dries around the edges of each
tessera to hold everything in place while you carefully turn over the mosaic.
Taking your time, remove all tape that secures the mesh, plastic wrap, and pattern paper to the work surface. Carefully lift everything (i.e.,
paper, plastic wrap, mesh, and glass) and turn it over. Then, slowly peel off the plastic wrap from the mesh. When the plastic wrap and
paper pattern are removed, you’ll see areas of wet glue in the center of most tesserae. Wait 24 hours to let the rest of the glue dry.
Figure 18 shows the wet glue in the center of most tesserae. PVA glue is white when wet and clear when dry, so all the white stuff on the
tesserae in Figure 18 is wet glue. For this mosaic, I waited a full 72 hours before peeling off the plastic wrap and found that a lot of glue
was still wet. However, after fully exposed to air, the remaining glue dried clear in about two hours. Be patient and allow plenty of time for
all of the glue to thoroughly dry before proceeding.
so good.
Step 8: Remove the Pattern and Plastic Wrap
Let the glue dry at least 48 hours; however, it probably still won’t be completely dry. The plastic wrap and glass are air-proof, and as the
glue dries from the outside edges, it entombs the rest of the wet glue in the center of each piece of tessera. The result is that the glue in the
center of each tessera takes a relatively long time to dry. As you'll learn in the chapter, Adhesives, of the eBook, PVA glue dries only when
the water evaporates, so when air flow is restricted, the glue stays wet longer. However, enough glue dries around the edges of each
tessera to hold everything in place while you carefully turn over the mosaic.
Taking your time, remove all tape that secures the mesh, plastic wrap, and pattern paper to the work surface. Carefully lift everything (i.e.,
paper, plastic wrap, mesh, and glass) and turn it over. Then, slowly peel off the plastic wrap from the mesh. When the plastic wrap and
paper pattern are removed, you’ll see areas of wet glue in the center of most tesserae. Wait 24 hours to let the rest of the glue dry.
Figure 18 shows the wet glue in the center of most tesserae. PVA glue is white when wet and clear when dry, so all the white stuff on the
tesserae in Figure 18 is wet glue. For this mosaic, I waited a full 72 hours before peeling off the plastic wrap and found that a lot of glue
was still wet. However, after fully exposed to air, the remaining glue dried clear in about two hours. Be patient and allow plenty of time for
all of the glue to thoroughly dry before proceeding.
| Figure 18. Glue in the Center of Most Tesserae is Wet Even after 72 Hours of Drying |
| Figure 19. Spread the Adhesive Evenly and Not Too Thick |
Notice in Figure 18 how the glue lifted the ink markings from the plastic wrap. Again, this is okay when using opaque glass, but disastrous
with transparent because the markings show through the glass. Also notice the white paint on some of the petals. The paint not only
prevents the mesh from showing through the transparent glass, but it also prevents the black markings from showing through.
Step 9: Cut Off the Excess Mesh
After all the glue is thoroughly dry, use a razor blade knife to carefully cut off the excess mesh.
with transparent because the markings show through the glass. Also notice the white paint on some of the petals. The paint not only
prevents the mesh from showing through the transparent glass, but it also prevents the black markings from showing through.
Step 9: Cut Off the Excess Mesh
After all the glue is thoroughly dry, use a razor blade knife to carefully cut off the excess mesh.
|
I find that a razor blade knife works much better than scissors because the razor cuts flush with the tesserae (no loose or hanging threads)
and it’s easy to run the blade. Simply position the mosaic over the edge of the work surface about an inch. Then, hold the mosaic with one
hand and carefully run the blade along the edge of the tesserae.
Step 10: Apply Adhesive to the Wall
Dry fit the mosaic into the backsplash area to ensure a good fit. If a piece of tessera fits too closely to the ceramic tile (i.e., no grout
space), then mark it with a black felt tip pen, take the mosaic back to your workspace, and trim that specific piece of tessera. When you’re
comfortable with the dry fit, you’re ready to adhere the mosaic to the wall.
Using a small trowel with shallow notches, apply adhesive, such as AcrylPro Ceramic Tile Adhesive (refer to the chapter, Adhesives, in my
eBook), to the wall over the entire backsplash area. Avoid slopping adhesive on the ceramic tile. If you do, simply wipe it off before it dries.
Once the adhesive is on the wall, go over it again with the trowel to get rid of all globs and thick ridges. If you apply too much adhesive, it
squeezes up and fills the grout spaces when you press the mosaic into place, so it’s important not to leave big globs or thick ridges. Notice
in Figure 19 how the adhesive is spread thinly and evenly over the wall. Also, notice how the adhesive is spread close to the ceramic tile but
not slopped all over it.
and it’s easy to run the blade. Simply position the mosaic over the edge of the work surface about an inch. Then, hold the mosaic with one
hand and carefully run the blade along the edge of the tesserae.
Step 10: Apply Adhesive to the Wall
Dry fit the mosaic into the backsplash area to ensure a good fit. If a piece of tessera fits too closely to the ceramic tile (i.e., no grout
space), then mark it with a black felt tip pen, take the mosaic back to your workspace, and trim that specific piece of tessera. When you’re
comfortable with the dry fit, you’re ready to adhere the mosaic to the wall.
Using a small trowel with shallow notches, apply adhesive, such as AcrylPro Ceramic Tile Adhesive (refer to the chapter, Adhesives, in my
eBook), to the wall over the entire backsplash area. Avoid slopping adhesive on the ceramic tile. If you do, simply wipe it off before it dries.
Once the adhesive is on the wall, go over it again with the trowel to get rid of all globs and thick ridges. If you apply too much adhesive, it
squeezes up and fills the grout spaces when you press the mosaic into place, so it’s important not to leave big globs or thick ridges. Notice
in Figure 19 how the adhesive is spread thinly and evenly over the wall. Also, notice how the adhesive is spread close to the ceramic tile but
not slopped all over it.
Notice that I apply the adhesive directly to the drywall. In this case, I primed the drywall but I didn’t install waterproof backerboard over
it. I don’t worry about water damage because I don’t expect water to ever hit the wall in this part of the backsplash. You should determine
if your application requires a waterproof backerboard.
it. I don’t worry about water damage because I don’t expect water to ever hit the wall in this part of the backsplash. You should determine
if your application requires a waterproof backerboard.
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