glass mosaic tile art studio of william j enslen jr
Mosaic Tools
Copyright © 2008-2012 by William J. Enslen, Jr.  All rights reserved.
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Mosaic Tools
I prefer using Wheeled Cutters (a.k.a. Wheeled Nippers) instead of Tile Nippers.  Some artists prefer using Tile Nippers over Wheeled Glass Cutters.  I believe the Wheeled
Cutters are more versatile because they do a great job of cutting stained glass, as well as 3/4-inch vitreous glass tiles---just my preference.
This tool is commonly called a "Scorer/Cutter" because it has a little wheel to score the glass and a
breaker with wings to cut the glass along the score line.  I hardly ever use this tool, but that's just
me.
Grozing pliers are a MUST.  I use Grozers nearly as often as the Wheeled
Cutters.  My ebook explains this tool with several pictures showing how
it's used to make tight inside-curved cuts with stained glass.
A Scorer is a MUST when using stained glass to create free-form
shapes or when you make your own square tiles from stained
glass.  I prefer the pistol-grip Scorer, but that's just me.
Use cutter oil in oil-fed scorers to extend
the wheel life and make cleaner cuts.
Running Pliers are a MUST when using stained glass.
Use Weldbond to adhere glass tesserae to your base material.  My ebook explains why Elmer's Glue All is an acceptable substitute for Weldbond.  Although I believe the
both have aequate adhesion properties for indoor mosaic applications, I'm torn between which product to use because Weldbond is a bit thicker than Elmer's (which I like,
but I don't know why) but Elmer's is so much cheaper (which I really like).  Read the section in my ebook and then make your choice!  In terms of adhesion strength, you
might be surprised at how well Elmer's performs.
4 oz.
21 oz.
5 oz.
9.29 oz.
8 oz.
64 oz.
4 oz.
7 5/8 oz.
1 gallon
32 oz.
A Glass Grinder is recommended if using stained glass to create free-form shapes.  I always use a Grinder to finish each glass piece, no matter what shape or size.  In my
early days, I didn't want to spend $100 for a Grinder, so I didn't use one.  Once I finally broke down and got one, I couldn't believe I went so long without it.  If you make
your own square tiles from stained glass, the Grinder isn't critical, but I still prefer using it to finish all cut glass.  The Grinder allows you smooth the cut edge of your piece.  
Wheeled Cutters and Nippers cannot result in perfectly smooth edges.  Those ragged edges are sometimes visible in the final mosaic.  Jagged edges are okay if that's the
look you're trying to achieve but, if you want smooth edges, a Grinder is critical.  The Grinder also allows you to easily refine the shape of the glass piece.  You can also grind
off those pesky sharp edges and points that cut your fingers!
Some Grinders come with a face shield, but I find some of them are too small for my preference, so I always use a big one to ensure proper eye protection.  The Grinder Bit
wears out after a while.  I usually replace a Bit after each mosaic project because I like to start a new project with a new Bit.  You can adjust the Bit up and down on the
Grinder spindle, which in effect provides a new grinding surface.  I start by positioning the top of the grinding surface where the glass contacts it when the glass is in the
grinding position.  After several hours of grinding, I loosen the little screw with the Allen wrench that usually comes with the new Bit, and slide the Bit up the spindle a
distance that's equal to the thickness of the glass I'm grinding.  I tighten the screw to hold the Bit in its new position on the Grinder spindle.  This aligns a fresh, unused
portion of the Bit to contact the glass.  I repeat the process after every few hours of grinding until I get to the bottom of the Bit and run out of grinding surface.  At that
point, it's time to buy a new Bit.  If you have questions about using a Grinder or replacing the Bit, please use my contact page (see the link at the top).